Printed Circuit Boards

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DESIGNING and MAKING A PCB

  Using CAD Advantages of using CAD Basic Procedure
  Double sided Boards Making a PCB Tip's for Designing PCB's
  Designing a PCB Assembling a PCB Soldering
  Soldering by Hand Through Hole Assembly Surface Mount Assembly
  Common Soldering Faults


Designing and making a PCB is perhaps the most important part of a successful Electronics project. If the PCB is faulty or badly designed your circuit is unlikely to work and any modifications will be obvious to an examiner.

Using CAD

Because we have access to a network of PC's and CAD software to help us develop PCB designs, the process we use to create the PCB design in school is very similar to the design process used in industry.

 

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In the design stage a CAD package (such as PCB Wizard above) is used to create a PCB photographic mask, which is used in the photo-eching process to print the circuit onto a copper clad board (a plastic board with a thin sheet of copper glued onto it), before it is etched to remove the unwanted copper.

Advantages of Using CAD

CAD (computer aided design) techniques have many advantages over other methods of producing the PCB mask.

1. Changes are easily made;

2. Direct plotting or printing onto boards is possible

3. Production of photographic masks is made easier;

4. Component layout drawings and silk screens can be produced at the same time;

5. Double sided boards can be produced accurately;

6. Auto-routing can be used to simplify the design of the track layout.

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Basic PCB Design

The basic procedure is quite simple. Firstly the components are placed in their likely positions. Then one by one the tracks are routed on the screen. It is important to work from a circuit diagram and cross off each track as it is laid down. When the final PCB has been checked and a satisfactory solution has been produced it can be printed. 

It is important to indicate which is the component side so that the PCB mask can be placed the correct way up when printing.

Having produced the PCB mask the next stage is to print this onto the surface of the copper clad board.

This is achieved using a photo-sensitive varnish. It is possible to buy this in a spray, but it is easier and more convenient to buy ready coated board. The only difference between the way this is achieved in school and the methods used in an industrial environment is the scale of production.

In school PCB's are usually prototype boards made singly or in small numbers. In industry the numbers of boards produced is much greater and instead of printing the mask onto a piece of board just big enough to contain the PCB, much larger boards are printed containing multiple copies of the mask. Often the optimum number and position of the masks is determined automatically using a computer program.

 

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Double Sided Boards

The same program can be used to drill the holes automatically before the circuit is etched. 

Quite often circuits used in industry are double sided (tracks and pads are drawn on both sides). The tracks on the top and bottom surfaces have to be connected together if the circuit is to work. This used to be done at the assembly stage when a wire was passed through connecting holes and soldered top and bottom.

Today, it is achieved by 'plating through' at the PCB making stage. Plating through is a technique where the tracks on the top and bottom sides are electro-plated with a tin/lead alloy so that the inside of holes are also plated. When passed through an oven (hot air levelling) the tin lead alloy fuses to join the top and bottom surfaces everywhere there is a hole.

We can use double sided boards in school if we are careful to align the top and bottom PCB masks, but most of the time circuits can be produced using single sided boards which are cheaper and easier to use.

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Making A PCB

The basic method for making a PCB from the PCB mask is outlined below:

 

1. Peel the black protective plastic off the photo-resist board. Place the PCB mask the directly onto the photo-resist making sure that the mask is the correct way round.

2. Hold them together and carefully place them into the UV box with the PCB mask against the glass. Set the timer for about 3-4 minutes and switch on. Wait untill the timer finishes.
3. When you remove the board from the UV box, place it into a solution of sodium hydroxide. After a short while, the etch-resist should be dissolved, revealing the track pattern. Wash in water.

4. Place the circuit board in the bubble-etch tank. The etching will take about 15-20 mins. Check the condition of the board at regular intervals. When the circuit has been etched remove from the tank and wash in water.
5. Dry and clean the printed circuit board and drill the holes needed for the components and wires.

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Tips for Designing PCB Artwork

1. Try to take the shortest route between pads.

2. Keep tracks aligned neatly.
3. Use components to bridge tracks wherever possible to avoid using wire links.

 

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4. Route tracks between IC pads only where absolutely necessary.

Designing a PCB

If you have designed a circuit using crocodile clips, you should be able to use this to import the components into PCB Wizard. If not you will have to select them manually (find out how to do this if you are not sure).

You should then have a diagram similar to the one shown right. It is important to save each stage as a different PCB file ie PCB-1, PCB-2 etc.

The next stage involves making the Printed Circuit Board as small as possible. Each component is highlighted and dragged to another position. At this time it is possible to rotate components as well in order to try to disentangle the 'nets' (the thin green lines joining components together). In your final PCB these lines will form the tracks between pads and they must only touch other pads and tracks to which they are should be connected. 
When you are happy that you have made the PCB as compact and as tidy as possible you should try to 'autoroute' the tracks to see how many nets you will need to route by hand. At this stage you should check the PCB against your circuit diagram to make sure all the components and tracks that you need are in position.

The tracks were then selected (choosing select all from the edit menu) and then increased in thickness using the edit properties menu.Having checked that the PCB is correct against the original circuit it could be printed as it is, but there are a number of things we can do to improve it.

The first of these is to block in pads and tracks that are joined together. This saves on etching time and materials and makes it easier for components to be soldered, because there is a much greater area of copper to solder to.
The final stage is to provide some fixing points for the PCB and somewhere to write your name and other details as shown below.

Your PCB is now ready for printing. You will need to print a copy of your PCB in: 

Normal

Real World

and Artwork views. 

 

The normal and real world views are used to help you assemble your circuit (they show which components go where) and the artwork is used to print the actual PCB onto copper board. 

 

You should keep a copy of your PCB at each stage, as well as a copy of the Normal, Real World and Artwork views for the development section of your folder.  

Make sure you explain what changes were made at each stage and why. Try to show how you checked your PCB for mistakes before showing the three views of your final circuit.  

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Assembling a circuit

Mounting Components

There are two ways of mounting components on a PCB. Traditionally, holes for the components are drilled through the PCB, the components are inserted and the connections are soldered on the underside of the PCB between the component lead and the PCB pad.  

In recent years, there has been a move, particularly in industry, towards a technique called surface mounting of components. For this method of assembly components are initially glued into place directly onto the copper pads.

For surface mounting most common components have been re-designed without wire leads to enable them to be made smaller. This means that more components can be packed into a smaller space

Surface mount capacitors and resistors look like small black 'bricks' with silver end caps.  

                   

Surface mounting is preferred to through-hole assembly in industry, largely because circuits can be made smaller and because this method of assembly is much cheaper for mass produced circuits.

It avoids the need to drill holes for each component, as well as cutting and pre-forming a large number of component leads. Automatic component placement machines which 'pick and place' components are easier to develop and use with surface mount components than similar pick and place machines for through-hole assembly.  

In school we would find it quite difficult to use surface mount components because they are so small, but it is possible to use surface mounting techniques with conventional through-hole components. Apart from resistors, diodes and capacitors, a lot of components have only been adapted slightly for surface mounting in industry. Many circuit designers particularly at the prototype stage surface mount conventional components. The most obvious advantage is that the components can be assembled in almost exactly the position shown in a circuit diagram or on a PCB component placement diagram.  

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It is important to decide at the PCB design stage whether to use through-hole or surface mount assembly techniques because the PCB mask must be placed the correct way round when the PCB is printed.  

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Soldering
In school we have to solder components by hand, because there is no alternative. In industry however, hand soldering is rarely used on a production line because it is so time consuming and expensive.  

 

When through-hole assembly is used components are usually pre-formed and placed in position using an automatic or semi-automatic component placement system. The assembled boards are then flow-soldered by being passed through a wave soldering machine.

A wave soldering machine is simply a wave of molten solder over which the assembled board is passed. The board and exposed pads and leads are sprayed with a flux before being placed on a conveyor system which passes the bottom of the board across the wave. All the exposed joints are soldered in one pass. Areas of the board which do not require soldering are protected by 'masking' with a heat resistant varnish.  

With the introduction of surface mount components manufacturers are now employing a process called re-flow soldering. With this process both the surface mount components and the PCB are pre-tinned (at the manufacturing stage) so that when heated in a re-flow oven the solder melts and 're-flows' to complete the soldered joint.

Some hand soldering is still needed to correct errors or perhaps to solder any through-hole components which have been used on a surface mount board which has been re-flowed.  

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Soldering by hand
Correct soldering is crucial to the success of any electronics project. Over recent years there has been a trend in industry to reduce the dependency on soldering flying leads by using press fit connectors. However many components will need to be soldered and it is important that the process for achieving a good soldered joint is understood.

There are five simple rules which will avoid most of the common problems.

Solder will not join to dirty materials. Both the pad and component leads need to be clean.
Solder will not join to cold materials. Both the lead and pad must be heated equally. Dirt or lack of heat can both cause 'dry joints'.
Wait about 5 seconds for the pad and lead to heat up, then apply a small amount of multi-core solder to the joint.
As soon as the solder flows into the joint take the solder and iron away. Too much heat can damage components.
Take care not to use too much solder it is easy to bridge tracks. Bridging can also occur if leads are not trimmed with wire cutters.

Through-hole assembly

Insert the components through the correct holes in the PCB so that they stick out of the track side.

Hold the components by the lead with small pliers. This helps to get rid of any excess heat.

Use a soldering iron with a clean, hot tip. Hold the tip against the copper pad and the lead of the component.

After about five seconds, bring the solder into contact and allow a small amount to melt onto the track and lead

Remove the solder then the iron, taking care not to move the component until the solder cools.

Check that the component is secure and trim back the lead as short as possible.

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Surface Mount Assembly

If surface mounting - pre-form and trim the component before soldering the joint as explained above.

 

 

 

 

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Common SOLDERING Faults
(and how to avoid them)

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Last updated: August 10, 2003 .